2. Satin, Crepe back satin, Charmeuse.   #2 of a 4 part series about the most popular silk fabrics used in wedding gowns.                        

Silk Duchess Satin is the most luxurious silk satin for bridal gowns. It has a nice sheen and is ideal for gowns with body and structure.  It gives gowns a very formal and traditional look.  The hand feel is wonderful, silky soft, yet substantial.  I found this description on a fabric website    “Rich. Full bodied. Medium to heavy weight with good body -- not fluid, no drape.”   Sounds like fine wine!

Crepe back satin is a lightly textured reversible fabric with crepe (matte finish with a bumpy texture) on one side and a high luster satin on the other. Very slinky and flows well, drapey like charmeuse but thicker.  The best dresses from the 1930’s-1940’s were made of crepe back satin.  The thicker weave gives bias cut dresses a more elegant and less nightgown like look than thin charmeuse.       

Charmeuse looks like satin but is softer and lighter in weight.  The front side of the fabric has a shiny satin finish, the back side is matte  The luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited to flowing evening gowns. For bridal gowns it is used in fluid, slinky bias cut dresses ( the pattern is cut on the diagonal) which cling and hang against the body instead of A-line styles since the fabric does not hold a shape well.  It is a difficult fabrics to sew, being slippery and hard to control and seams have a tendency to pucker and pull.  That is the trade off for the stylish and old Hollywood glamour of  bias cut dresses.